The Road to the Arctic Ocean

The Dalton Highway is the most remote, demanding, and unforgettable drive in North America: 414 miles of mostly gravel road across the Brooks Range to the Arctic Ocean, built in five months during the summer of 1974 as an industrial haul road to support construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Originally called the "Haul Road" and closed to public traffic, it was named for James Dalton, an arctic engineer, and opened progressively to the public between 1981 (to Disaster Creek) and 1994 (full length to Deadhorse). It remains primarily a working road: 18-wheel trucks carrying pipeline equipment, oil-field supplies, and consumer goods to the Prudhoe Bay oil field thunder past at every hour, and they always have the right of way. The route crosses some of the most remote wilderness in the United States, passing through three distinct ecosystems: the boreal forest of black spruce, paper birch, and aspen below the Arctic Circle, the Brooks Range (the northernmost major mountain range in North America, with peaks reaching 9,000 feet), and the arctic tundra of the North Slope (a treeless plain stretching 200 miles from the Brooks Range to the Arctic Ocean, where the ground is permanently frozen to depths of up to 2,000 feet). The road parallels the Trans-Alaska Pipeline for nearly its entire length, the 800-mile, 48-inch-diameter steel tube carrying crude oil from Prudhoe Bay's Arctic oil fields to the tanker terminal at Valdez. Built between 1975 and 1977, the pipeline crosses three mountain ranges, more than 800 rivers and streams, and three major fault lines on Teflon-coated supports that allow it to flex during earthquakes (it survived the 7.9-magnitude Denali Fault earthquake of November 2002 without spilling a drop). The Dalton's signal feature is Atigun Pass (4,800 feet), the highest road in Alaska and the only road in the United States that crosses the Continental Divide of the Arctic, separating waters flowing south to the Bering Sea from waters flowing north to the Arctic Ocean. At Deadhorse, the public road ends 8 miles short of the Arctic Ocean itself; access to the water requires a guided shuttle through the Prudhoe Bay security gates. This is not a casual scenic drive. It is one of the great expedition road trips on Earth.

Key Stops

Fairbanks (Starting Point) The Dalton Highway technically begins at Livengood, 84 miles north of Fairbanks on the Elliott Highway. Fairbanks is the only practical staging point: stock up on fuel, food, water, spare tires, extra fluids, satellite communication, and detailed maps. Two specialty rental car companies in Fairbanks (Alaska 4x4 Rentals, Arctic Outfitters) allow Dalton Highway driving; almost all standard rental car contracts (Avis, Hertz, Enterprise) explicitly prohibit it.

Elliott Highway to Livengood The Elliott Highway (AK-2) runs paved from Fairbanks to Livengood (Mile 73 Elliott), passing through black spruce taiga, occasional homesteads, and small mining outposts. At Livengood, the Dalton Highway officially begins.

Dalton Highway Mile 0 A signed pullout marks the official start of the Dalton at Mile 73 Elliott. From here, the road becomes a wide gravel artery built for heavy trucks. Pavement is intermittent for the next 414 miles; long sections are graded chip-seal or gravel.

Yukon River Crossing (Mile 56) The highway crosses the Yukon River (the longest river in Alaska at 1,980 miles) on a unique inclined wooden-deck bridge that also carries the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The bridge is 2,290 feet long and slopes 6 percent down toward the Pacific side. The Yukon River Camp at the south end offers fuel (the only fuel between Fairbanks and Coldfoot, 119 miles north), a small restaurant, lodging, and a tire-repair shop. The BLM Yukon Crossing Visitor Contact Station has interpretive exhibits and Dalton Highway maps.

Finger Mountain Wayside (Mile 98) A short pulloff with interpretive panels on the geology of the area, surrounded by granite tors (volcanic plugs) standing isolated above the tundra. The "finger" is a distinctive vertical rock formation. Excellent stretch-your-legs stop with sweeping subarctic views.

Arctic Circle Sign (Mile 115) The official crossing of the Arctic Circle at 66°33' North. A large wooden sign and small parking area mark the spot. North of this line, on at least one day in summer the sun does not set; on at least one day in winter it does not rise. The crossing is one of the great photographic milestones for any Alaska traveler. A BLM campground sits nearby.

Coldfoot (Mile 175) A former 1898 gold-rush mining camp, named (according to local lore) when prospectors got "cold feet" and turned back. Now a truck stop with the Coldfoot Camp (a complex of modular buildings that includes the only restaurant, fuel, and lodging for over 200 miles in either direction), the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center (operated jointly by the BLM, NPS, and USFWS, with excellent exhibits on Arctic ecology and Native cultures, open May 24 through September), and a small airstrip. Coldfoot Camp offers basic motel rooms in former pipeline-worker dormitories, a hearty buffet at the Trucker's Cafe, and is the staging point for several arctic adventure tour operators. Fuel here. This is the last reliable fuel and services before Deadhorse, 240 miles north.

Wiseman (Mile 188) A tiny historic gold-mining village 3 miles off the highway, founded in 1907 and still inhabited by about a dozen year-round residents who live off the grid in original log cabins. Wiseman Trading Post and the small Wiseman Museum offer a glimpse into early-20th-century arctic mining life. Several homestead-style B&Bs operate in summer. Wiseman is also one of the premier aurora viewing locations in the world due to its latitude (just south of the Arctic Circle) and lack of light pollution; Aurora Borealis Lodge in Wiseman is a popular winter destination.

Sukakpak Mountain (Mile 203) A striking marble dome that rises 3,000 feet above the road, often called the most photographed mountain on the Dalton. The peak marks the southern edge of the Brooks Range and the traditional boundary between Athabaskan and Iñupiaq Native territories.

Disaster Creek (Mile 211) The historic public access endpoint on the Dalton from 1981 to 1994. North of here, you are deep in the Brooks Range with no services, no permanent structures, and no cell coverage.

Brooks Range and Atigun Pass (Mile 244) The highway climbs into the Brooks Range, the northernmost major mountain chain in North America, stretching 700 miles east to west across Alaska and into Canada. At Atigun Pass (4,800 feet), the road crests the Continental Divide of the Arctic. North of this line, all waters flow to the Arctic Ocean. The pass is the highest road in Alaska and is steep, narrow, and avalanche-prone in winter. The treeline ends here; the road descends into pure arctic tundra. Watch for Dall sheep on the surrounding peaks (white in summer, blending with snow in winter), musk oxen in the valleys below, grizzly bears, and wolves. Gates of the Arctic National Park lies west of the road; Arctic National Wildlife Refuge lies east. Both are entirely roadless; the Dalton is the closest road access.

Galbraith Lake (Mile 275) A large alpine lake at the base of the Brooks Range with a BLM campground. The lake is fed by streams from the Endicott Mountains and is a key staging area for caribou herds.

Toolik Field Station (Mile 284) A research station operated by the University of Alaska Fairbanks where scientists from around the world study arctic ecology. Not generally open to the public, but visible from the road.

North Slope Tundra and the Caribou Herds For nearly 200 miles between the Brooks Range and Deadhorse, the road crosses the arctic tundra of the North Slope: a treeless, permafrost plain dotted with thaw lakes (small ponds formed by melting permafrost), pingos (ice-cored hills), and ribbons of vegetation along creek drainages. Two of the world's largest caribou herds, the Porcupine Caribou Herd (approximately 200,000 animals) and the Central Arctic Caribou Herd, range across this country. Spring and fall migrations can produce extraordinary roadside encounters. Musk oxen, arctic foxes, ptarmigan, snowy owls, and golden eagles are also possible sightings.

Franklin Bluffs and Sagavanirktok River The road parallels the Sagavanirktok ("Sag") River for the final 150 miles. The Franklin Bluffs glow gold and pink in low arctic light, particularly at midnight in midsummer when the sun grazes the northern horizon without setting.

Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay (Mile 414) The Dalton Highway's northern terminus, an industrial settlement of 25 to 50 permanent residents (and roughly 3,000 to 5,000 rotating oil-field workers) at the Prudhoe Bay oil field, the largest oil field in North America. Deadhorse is not a town in any conventional sense: it is a collection of modular industrial buildings, fuel depots, machine shops, and worker dormitories. There are no trees, no permanent residences, no schools, and no Native Alaskan villages within 50 miles. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel and the Aurora Hotel are basic worker camps that take overnight tourists.

The Arctic Ocean (Guided Shuttle Only) The public road ends at Deadhorse. To reach the Arctic Ocean (the Beaufort Sea, the southernmost arm of the Arctic Ocean), visitors must book the Arctic Ocean Shuttle (operated by Deadhorse Camp or Arctic Caribou Inn), which crosses the security checkpoints into the BP/ConocoPhillips/Hilcorp oil field. The 2-hour tour includes a dip-the-toes (or full plunge, if you dare) opportunity at the ocean. Pre-booking required (24 hours minimum) for security background checks. Approximately $80–$100 per person. The Arctic Ocean is the only way to "complete" the Dalton Highway.

Driving Tips

• The Dalton Highway is one of the most demanding drives in North America. Most rental car contracts prohibit it; if you violate this, you are personally liable for any damage. Reserve through specialty rental operators in Fairbanks (Alaska 4x4 Rentals, Arctic Outfitters) or arrange a guided tour with Northern Alaska Tour Company or Arctic Outfitters.
• Carry two full-size spare tires, a spare fuel tank (5 to 10 gallons), 5 gallons of water, extra engine coolant and oil, a tow strap, a tire-repair kit, jumper cables, flashlights with extra batteries, emergency food, and warm clothing for all seasons. Flat tires from sharp gravel are routine.
• Truck traffic has the right of way. Pull over for trucks; pull off completely for caravans of three or more. Trucks throw rocks; cracked windshields are nearly guaranteed.
• No cell coverage for over 400 miles between Coldfoot and Deadhorse. A satellite messenger (Garmin inReach, Zoleo) is strongly recommended; consider a satellite phone for safety.
• Fuel is available only at: Fairbanks/Fox area, Yukon River Camp (Mile 56), Coldfoot (Mile 175), and Deadhorse (Mile 414). Fill up at every opportunity. The 240-mile stretch between Coldfoot and Deadhorse is the longest fuel gap.
• Headlights on, day and night. This is a legal requirement and a safety necessity due to dust and weather.
• Weather changes rapidly. Snow can fall any month of the year. Atigun Pass can close suddenly for avalanches, storms, or accidents. Check road conditions at 511.alaska.gov and the BLM Dalton Highway website before departing.
• Wildlife strikes are common. Moose, caribou, musk oxen, and bears can appear without warning. Drive at reasonable speeds (typically 35–55 mph on gravel sections), especially at dawn and dusk.
• Permafrost makes the road surface unpredictable. Frost heaves, settlement cracks, and wet clay sections can be treacherous after rain. Drive defensively.
• Atigun Pass is steep, narrow, and avalanche-prone. Do not drive through in active storms; pull off and wait it out.
• Most travelers fly one way: drive north to Deadhorse, then fly back to Fairbanks on Alaska Airlines, Ravn Alaska, or Northern Alaska Tour Company's chartered flights. This shortens the trip from 4 days minimum to 2–3 days and provides an aerial view of the country you drove through.
• The road has only three permanent settlements (Coldfoot, Wiseman, and Deadhorse) with limited and expensive lodging. Reserve in advance. Camping is possible at BLM campgrounds (Five Mile, Arctic Circle, Marion Creek, Galbraith Lake), but bring full backcountry gear and bear-resistant food storage.
• In winter, the Dalton becomes the famous "Ice Road" of Ice Road Truckers fame. Temperatures regularly drop to -50°F or colder. The aurora borealis is spectacular but the drive becomes a true survival expedition. Only experienced arctic drivers should attempt winter conditions.
• Hunting and fishing are subject to Alaska Department of Fish and Game regulations; some species require permits, and the Dalton Corridor has special regulations restricting motorized hunting access within 5 miles of the road.
• The Arctic Ocean Shuttle at Deadhorse must be booked at least 24 hours in advance for security clearance. Bring photo ID.
• Mosquitoes and biting flies are notorious from late June through August. Carry strong DEET-based repellent and a head net.
• For more information visit: BLM Dalton Highway