Into the Wild Heart of Patagonia

The Carretera Austral — Chile's Southern Highway — is one of the last great road adventures on Earth. Stretching 1,240 km through the heart of Chilean Patagonia, Route 7 traverses some of the most remote, wild, and staggeringly beautiful terrain anywhere. Built under Pinochet's government beginning in the 1970s to connect isolated settlements, much of the road remains unpaved, requiring three ferry crossings where the highway meets fjords too wide to bridge. The route passes through temperate rainforests dripping with moss, past turquoise glacial lakes, beneath snow-capped volcanoes, and alongside rivers so clear they seem lit from within. Flanked by fjords, hanging glaciers, marble caves, and waterfalls at every turn, the Carretera Austral connects a string of tiny frontier towns where Patagonian gaucho culture thrives. It is not a road you drive to get somewhere — it is the destination itself.

Key Stops

Puerto Montt - The northern gateway and starting point. This bustling port city on the Reloncaví Sound is the last major urban center you'll see. Stock up on everything — groceries, spare tires, cash — before heading south. The famous seafood market at Angelmó is a must before departure.

Hornopirén - Reached via the first ferry crossing from Caleta Arena (45 minutes). This small town sits at the edge of Hornopirén National Park, dominated by the volcanic peak of the same name. Hot springs in the area offer a first taste of Patagonia's geothermal gifts.

Chaitén - A frontier town partially destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 2008 and since rebuilt. The grey ghost forest left by the eruption is eerily beautiful. Chaitén serves as a supply stop and the gateway to Pumalín from the south.

Parque Pumalín Douglas Tompkins - One of the largest private conservation projects ever undertaken, now a national park. This 740,000-acre sanctuary of temperate rainforest, alerce (ancient larch) groves, and volcanic peaks was the vision of The North Face founder Doug Tompkins. Excellent trails, campgrounds, and hot springs.

Futaleufú - A detour east from the main route, but one of the world's premier whitewater rafting and kayaking destinations. The Futaleufú River's turquoise Class V rapids draw paddlers from around the globe.

La Junta - A quiet crossroads town and good overnight stop. From here, a side road leads west to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, a tiny fishing village on the coast with dolphins and sea lions.

Puyuhuapi - A village founded by German settlers in the 1930s, set on a stunning fjord. Famous for Termas de Puyuhuapi, luxurious hot springs accessible only by boat across the fjord. A perfect rest stop after long days on gravel.

Queulat National Park & Hanging Glacier - About 30 km south of Puyuhuapi lies the route's most iconic sight: the Ventisquero Colgante, a hanging glacier that appears frozen in mid-air between two peaks, with twin waterfalls cascading from its face. The 6 km trail through lush forest to the viewpoint passes roaring waterfalls and is home to Magellanic woodpeckers and chucao tapaculos.

Coyhaique - The regional capital and largest town on the entire route (population ~60,000). This is the place to resupply, repair your vehicle, rest in a comfortable hotel, and withdraw cash. The surrounding area offers excellent fly fishing on the Simpson River.

Cerro Castillo - A small village beneath the dramatic spires of Cerro Castillo, whose jagged basalt towers resemble a Gothic fortress. The Cerro Castillo trek (4 days) is considered one of Patagonia's finest hikes, rivaling Torres del Paine without the crowds.

Puerto Río Tranquilo & The Marble Caves - The most photographed stop on the Carretera Austral. Boat tours depart from this lakeside village onto General Carrera Lake (South America's second-largest lake) to explore the Capillas de Mármol — marble caves, tunnels, and arches sculpted over millennia by turquoise glacial waters. When sunlight penetrates the caverns, the swirling blue reflections on the marble walls are otherworldly.

Cochrane - A small ranching town and gateway to Tamango National Reserve, where endangered huemul deer can be spotted. The confluence of the Baker and Nef rivers nearby is a vivid collision of turquoise and grey glacial waters.

Caleta Tortel - One of Chile's most unique villages, built entirely on wooden boardwalks and stilts over the water at the mouth of the Baker River. No roads connect the houses — only cypress-wood walkways and staircases winding through the forest. Surrounded by fjords, glaciers, and the Northern Patagonian Ice Field.

Villa O'Higgins - The end of the road. This remote village of around 600 people is where the Carretera Austral simply stops, blocked by the Andes and the Southern Ice Field. Celebrate your arrival with a whisky chilled by glacier ice. From here, adventurous travelers can continue by boat and foot to El Chaltén in Argentina.

Driving Tips

• 4x4 is essential: South of Villa Cerro Castillo the road is almost entirely gravel. A high-clearance 4WD vehicle is strongly recommended for the entire route and mandatory for the southern half. Rental agencies in Puerto Montt and Coyhaique specialize in Carretera Austral vehicles.
• Speed on gravel: Keep between 40-60 km/h (25-37 mph) on unpaved sections. Slow further on wet gravel, curves, and when passing oncoming traffic to avoid windshield damage from flying stones.
• Ferry reservations: Three ferry crossings are required. Some operate first-come-first-served (arrive early, expect delays in high season). The Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo crossing runs once daily at 9 am and takes approximately 4 hours — do not miss it.
• Fuel strategy: Gas stations are separated by hundreds of kilometers. Fill your tank at every opportunity — never pass a station with less than half a tank. Carry a spare fuel canister (available at service stations or rental agencies). In tiny villages like Villa O'Higgins, fuel is sometimes sold from jugs at private homes.
• Cash is king: ATMs exist only in Coyhaique and Cochrane. Many small towns, ferries, and fuel stops accept cash only. Carry plenty of Chilean pesos.
• Weather: Patagonian weather is wildly unpredictable. Rain, wind, and sunshine can cycle within a single hour. Pack layers and rain gear. Wind can be fierce, especially on exposed lakeside sections.
• Windshield protection: Consider a windshield protector or insurance that covers stone chips. Oncoming vehicles on gravel kick up rocks constantly.
• Supplies: Stock food and water for multi-day stretches. Between towns, there is nothing — no shops, no restaurants, no cell service. Download offline maps before departure (Maps.me or Gaia GPS).
• For more information visit: chile.travel/en/destinations/carretera-austral