Spain's Alpine Wilderness: A Journey Through Europe's First National Park

Rising dramatically just 15 kilometers from the Bay of Biscay, the Picos de Europa ("Peaks of Europe") offer some of Spain's most spectacular mountain driving. This rugged limestone massif, straddling three regions—Asturias, Cantabria, and Castilla y León—was Spain's first national park (1918) and remains one of its most breathtaking. Winding roads carved into sheer gorge walls, glacial lakes nestled in alpine meadows, and Europe's longest single-span cable car create a driving adventure through truly wild European terrain.

Key Stops

Potes - The "Rural Capital of Tourism" (2020), this perfectly preserved Cantabrian mountain town serves as the ideal base for exploring the Eastern Massif. Stone bridges, medieval towers, and excellent restaurants serving local cocido lebaniego (hearty stew) and orujo (grape spirit) make this a highlight of any visit.

Fuente Dé Cable Car - Europe's longest single-span cable car whisks passengers from 1,070 to 1,823 meters in just four minutes. At the top, hiking trails lead into the heart of the Central Massif with views extending to the distant coast.

Mirador del Corzo - Along the N-621, marked by a chamois statue, with views into La Hermida Gorge.

Monument to Oso Pardo - A stone sculpture of a brown bear at Collado de Llesba, honoring the endangered Cantabrian brown bears that still roam these mountains.

Mirador del Tombo - Just north of Posada de Valdeón, this viewpoint offers excellent views of the southern entrance to the famous Cares Gorge.

Puerto de Panderrueda - A natural mountain viewpoint overlooking the Valdeón Valley, offering panoramas of the surrounding peaks.

Cangas de Onís - The first capital of Christian Spain after the Reconquista, featuring the famous Roman bridge with its Victory Cross hanging beneath the central arch.

Covadonga Sanctuary - A place of profound historical significance—this is where the Reconquista began in 722 when Pelayo defeated the Moors. The cave sanctuary, statue of Pelayo, and the stunning San Fernando Basilica nestled against the mountainside deserve at least an hour's exploration.

Lagos de Covadonga (Covadonga Lakes) - The glacial Lago Enol and Lago Ercina sit at 1,000 meters elevation, surrounded by alpine meadows grazed by cattle and wild horses. One of Spain's most photographed landscapes, especially magical at dawn before the crowds arrive.

Mirador del Naranjo de Bulnes (Pozo de la Oración) - This roadside viewpoint near Las Arenas offers views of the iconic Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu), the 2,519-meter granite tower that is the symbol of the Picos and a legendary climbing challenge.

Bulnes - A car-free village accessible only by funicular or on foot, perched high in the mountains. Just a couple of cafés and restaurants serve this remote hamlet that serves as the gateway to serious Central Massif hiking.

Sotres - The highest village in the Picos at 1,050 meters, famous as the heartland of Cabrales cheese production. Visit a cave where this pungent blue cheese ages, and sample it with local cider.

Balneario de la Hermida - Hot springs resort established in 1881, offering indoor and outdoor pools fed by water emerging at 60°C. A perfect recovery stop after mountain driving.

Driving Tips

• Covadonga Lakes Access Restrictions - During summer (typically July–August), private vehicles are prohibited during peak hours. Buses run from the parking area. To drive your own car, you must pass through the gate before 7:30 AM—return is unrestricted.
• Arrive Early at Fuente Dé - The cable car is extremely popular. Arrive before 9:00 AM to avoid long queues, especially when tour coaches begin arriving.
• La Hermida Gorge Challenges - The N-621 through the gorge is busy with limited safe stopping points. The Mirador del Corzo is one of the few designated viewpoints—don't attempt to stop elsewhere.
• Mountain Road Conditions - Some routes like the LE-2703 are single-lane in places and in varying condition. Drive slowly, use your horn on blind corners, and be prepared to reverse.
• Expect Narrow Roads - Many Picos roads cling to cliffs with little room for error. Confident mountain driving skills are essential.
• Weather Changes Rapidly - The mountains create their own weather. Pack layers and rain gear even on sunny days, especially if taking the cable car to higher elevations.
• Allow Extra Time - Winding roads mean slow progress. What looks close on a map takes much longer. Don't rush—the scenery deserves your attention.
• Fuel Up in Towns - Fill your tank in Potes, Cangas de Onís, or other larger towns. Petrol stations are scarce in the mountains.
• Book Cable Car Online - In peak season, reserve Fuente Dé cable car tickets online to guarantee your time slot.
• Hiking Boots Essential - Even if focusing on driving, you'll want to walk to viewpoints and explore villages on foot. Proper footwear is necessary.
• Try the Local Cheese - Cabrales blue cheese is world-famous. Sample it in Sotres or Arenas de Cabrales where it's made.
• For more information visit: parquenacionalpicoseuropa.es